Plasticard, styrene, polystyrene, plastic card — they’re all the same thing: thin sheets of high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) that modelers cut, score, and glue into terrain, scratch-built kits, conversions, and bases. “Plasticard” is the British term; “styrene sheet” is the American one. It comes in a range of thicknesses, and the only real question is which thickness for which job — thin sheets bend and take detail, thick sheets give you structure. This guide covers the thicknesses (in inches and millimeters), what each is best for, and how to cut and glue it.
What Is Plasticard? (and Why It Has So Many Names)
Plasticard is a flat sheet of polystyrene plastic — specifically high-impact polystyrene (HIPS), the same family of plastic as the sprues your model kits come on. It’s the hobby’s “raw lumber”: an inexpensive, workable material you cut and glue into almost anything.
The confusing part is the names. They all describe the same material:
- Plasticard — the common British term.
- Styrene sheet / sheet styrene — the common American term.
- Polystyrene sheet or HIPS — the technical name.
- Plastic card — a casual catch-all.
If you’ve seen “plasticard” on a UK forum and “styrene” on a US one and wondered what the difference is — there isn’t one. It’s the same plastic.
Plasticard Thickness Chart (Inches & Millimeters)
Sheet thickness is measured in thousandths of an inch (“thou”) or in millimeters. Thin sheets bend and take fine detail; thick sheets hold their shape and carry weight. Here’s the working range and what each is best for:
| Thickness | mm | Best for | Shop at LITKO |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.020″ (20 thou) | 0.5mm | Fine detail, plating, wrapping curves, thin overlays | 0.020″ pack |
| 0.030″ (30 thou) | 0.75mm | Light panels, detailing, small parts | 0.030″ pack |
| 0.040″ (40 thou) | 1.0mm | General structure, walls, the all-rounder thickness | 0.040″ pack |
| 0.060″ (60 thou) | 1.5mm | Sturdy structure, floors, bulkheads | 0.060″ pack |
| 0.080″ (80 thou) | 2.0mm | Heavy structure, sub-bases, load-bearing parts | 0.080″ pack |
| 0.100″ (100 thou) | 2.5mm | The thickest sheet — rigid structural work | 0.100″ pack |
Forms & Finishes
LITKO’s plasticard is flat, smooth, matte-white HIPS sheet in 8×10″ sheets — the versatile workhorse for scratchbuilding, terrain, and basing. Matte white primes and paints cleanly and is easy to mark up before you cut.
The wider hobby also offers plasticard in textured / embossed patterns (brick, stone, planking, roof tile, diamond plate, corrugated metal) and in rod, strip, and tube profiles — useful for pipes, beams, and surface detail. Brands like Evergreen and Plastruct specialize in those. For sheet work, LITKO’s smooth HIPS is the foundation you build on; add brand profiles or textured sheet on top when a project calls for it.
What Modelers Build With It
- Scratchbuilding — whole vehicles, buildings, and objective pieces from sheet, no kit required.
- Terrain & buildings — walls, floors, ruins, fortifications, sci-fi bulkheads. (Or skip the cutting with pre-sized terrain footprints.)
- Conversions & kitbashing — armor plating, hull extensions, banners, custom bits.
- Basing — texturing and building up bases; thick sheet makes a sturdy sub-base.
- Detailing & plating — thin sheet wraps curves and adds rivets, panels, and trim.
How to Cut & Glue Plasticard
Cutting is “score and snap.” You don’t cut all the way through — you run a hobby knife along a steel ruler two or three times to score a line, then bend the sheet against the score and it snaps cleanly. Thicker sheet needs a few more passes. For curves and openings, drill a starter hole and finish with the knife or a file.
Gluing is a solvent weld. Plasticard bonds best with liquid plastic cement (also called poly cement or styrene cement) — a thin solvent that briefly melts the two surfaces so they fuse into one piece, the same as assembling a plastic kit. Brush it into the joint and hold for a few seconds. Super glue (CA) also works for quick tacks and gluing styrene to other materials, but the solvent weld is what makes a plasticard build strong.
Plasticard vs. Acrylic vs. Plywood
Plasticard isn’t the only sheet material on the bench. Here’s when to reach for each:
| Material | Strengths | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Plasticard (styrene) | Soft, light, score-and-snap, solvent-welds; easy to shape and detail | Scratchbuilding, terrain, conversions, detailing |
| Acrylic | Rigid, durable, available clear; precise when laser-cut | Bases, flight stands, templates, anything that needs to be see-through or hard-wearing |
| Plywood | Stiff, natural surface, takes flock and paint well | Bases and movement trays where you want a solid, scenic-friendly surface |
Acrylic is a different plastic — rigid, a little brittle, usually laser-cut, and welded with a different solvent than styrene. For the base itself, a stock or custom acrylic/plywood base is usually easier than cutting one from sheet — but plasticard is the tool for everything you build: terrain, conversions, and the structure and detail you add on top.
LITKO Plasticard Packs
LITKO makes plasticard in matte-white HIPS, 8×10″ sheets, in single-thickness packs and a variety pack. Sheet count scales with thickness (thinner sheets come more to a pack). Browse the full range in plasticard & styrene sheets, or start with the variety pack and add single thicknesses as you learn what you use most.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is plasticard?
Plasticard is thin sheet made of high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) — the same plastic as model kit sprues. Modelers cut, score, and glue it to build terrain, scratch-built kits, conversions, and bases. “Plasticard,” “styrene sheet,” “polystyrene sheet,” and “plastic card” all refer to the same material.
Is plasticard the same as styrene?
Yes. “Plasticard” is the common British term and “styrene sheet” is the common American term for the same material: high-impact polystyrene sheet. There is no difference between them.
What thickness of plasticard should I use?
Thin sheet (0.020–0.030″, about 0.5–0.75mm) is for fine detail, plating, and wrapping curves. Medium sheet (0.040″, about 1.0mm) is the all-round structure thickness for walls and panels. Thick sheet (0.060–0.100″, about 1.5–2.5mm) is for sturdy structure, floors, and sub-bases.
What is the difference between plasticard and acrylic?
Plasticard (styrene) is soft, light, cuts by score-and-snap, and welds with liquid plastic cement, which makes it ideal for building and conversions. Acrylic is a different, rigid plastic that is usually laser-cut, can be clear, and welds with a different solvent; it is better for bases, flight stands, and templates.
How do you cut plasticard?
Score and snap. Run a sharp hobby knife along a steel ruler a few times to score a line, then bend the sheet against the score until it snaps cleanly. Thicker sheet just needs a few more passes. You do not need to cut all the way through.
What glue works on plasticard?
Liquid plastic cement, also called poly cement or styrene cement. It is a thin solvent that briefly melts the surfaces so they fuse into one piece. Super glue works for quick tacks or for gluing styrene to other materials, but the solvent weld makes the strongest plasticard joints.
Can you use plasticard for bases and terrain?
Yes — plasticard is ideal for building and texturing terrain and for adding structure and detail to bases. For the base itself, a stock laser-cut acrylic or plywood base is usually easier than cutting one from sheet.
Where to Go Next
- Plasticard & Styrene Sheets — the full range, all thicknesses
- Plasticard Variety Pack — the four most-used thicknesses in one set
- Terrain Footprints — pre-cut footprint sizes if you’d rather skip the scratchbuilding
- BaseMaker — custom laser-cut bases when sheet isn’t the right tool
Matte-white HIPS styrene sheet in every working thickness — for terrain, scratchbuilds, conversions and bases.
Shop Plasticard & Styrene → Start With the Variety Pack